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Illustration by Charlie Leman
History of The Delightful Muddle by Kayleigh Macdonald
The Delightful Muddle Vintage was founded by Ethel Gertrude Lee, who was better known by her stage name Betty Lambert.
Mrs Lee, the great grandmother of Catherine Beck- one of the current partners- was a variety artiste, singer and dancer in the East End of London, helping shape the basis of her loyal clientele from the music halls where she performed.
Following World War 1, Mrs Lee supported her family with her love of costume and antique clothing by trading under the famous clock tower in Caledonian market, and in the markets of East Street, London.
Mrs Lee, born in 1886, had managed to expand to three Delightful Muddle Vintage stores in Camberwell Green, Covent Garden and Pimlico by the 1950’s. These Delightful Muddle boutiques specialised in fine lace from Honiton and Bruges as well as antique clothing, and costume from stage and screen.
Mrs Lee’s passion for clothing extended past her vintage clothing stores. She also had an extensive collection of Victorian and Edwardian costume, parts of which she kindly donated to the Victoria and Albert Museum.
The Delightful Muddle Vintage continued to run up until Mrs Lee’s death in 1977 at the age of 91. She only took time off for a trip to Soviet Russia in the winter of 1966 for her 80th birthday, and to travel to the United States and Mexico where she crossed the Atlantic Ocean on the world’s largest ocean liner- Queen Elizabeth 1.
The work ethic was shared by Gertrude Lee’s daughter, Marjorie Faith Storey, the successor of the business, who continued travelling to Bruges by coach to buy lace in her eighties.
Marjorie Storey ran the Delightful Muddle Vintage boutiques in Pimlico and later Chichester, Sussex assisted by her husband Jack until she retired in 2006.
The Delightful Muddle Vintage is now run by Catherine Beck and Becca Gray, and specialises in vintage clothing from the 1950’s to the 1980’s.
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A Brief History of Vintage Fashion by Kayleigh Macdonald
Vintage fashion is categorised as garments or accessories dating from the 1920s-1980s.
Vintage clothing is versatile and can suit anybody- so you could go head- to- toe vintage (for the daring) or find key pieces to mix and match with high street clothes for a modern twist.
Vintage clothing appeals as it is unique and allows the individual to cultivate their own personal style, assured that no one else will have the same outfit on as you. Many celebrities love vintage fashion- from Dita Von Tease, who favours 40’s inspired chic cocktail dresses, to Kate Moss’s revamp of the 20’s flapper dress. Buying vintage clothes is now more popular than ever before.
For those of you who would like to go vintage, but need a point in the right direction, here is a handy guide to explain the different styles of each decade, so you know what exactly you are wearing:
20s
The twenties marked the economic boom in America, and the birth of the flapper girl, Evelyn Brent. Women got the vote, and were becoming more prominent figures in society. The fashion reflected this new found confidence- hemlines rose to reveal the legs, masculine linear silhouettes were now being sported instead of confining corsets, and cloche hats and knitwear were popular.
Vintage clothing with a tubular cut, waistlines parallel to the hips, and wide linen trousers were the theme of the twenties- with evening wear becoming less restricted as it was acceptable for women to be going out dancing. Materials such as silk and chiffon were used as well as gold and silver lame. The archaeological discovery of Tutankhmun sparked a craze for all things Egyptian, so there were flowers, scarabs and hieroglyphics detailed on some garments. These are clues for the 20s inspired garment.
Other things from the twenties: Pearls, Cuban heeled shoes, embroidered shawls, and Mesh bags.
30s
The thirties still carried much of the same style over from the previous decade, but with a difference. Cinema was now popular, actresses idolised. Hollywood style was desirable. Women wanted long lasting, durable clothing as the Depression was upon them.
Daywear was smart, and efficient. Suits were worn with shoulder padding, there was a square look to the jackets, and suits were now sharp and tailored- a contrast with the boyish style of the twenties. Evening wear was pioneered by Madeleine Vionnet; the bias cut dress made to emphasise the now desired figure- slim with womanly curves. Sculptural dresses were being produced to fit with this trend.
Other items from the thirties: Brogues, Peep toe shoes, Capes, Tea dresses, Twinsets.
40s
This was the decade of the Second World War, and it is harder to find vintage clothing from this era as most garments were worn to death. Women were coming into the workplace to help with the war effort, so the style of clothing had to reflect durability and strength. The overall look of the forties was tailored and smart, an imitation of military uniforms. Trousers were popular as they were practical for working women, and as cloth was being rationed the women of the forties favoured garments which would be versatile. The colours were usually green, navy and brown- with prints limited to a small simple floral design. For eveningwear, styles were simple, with puffed sleeves, draping and ruching effects.
Other pieces from the forties: Siren suits, Sweetheart necklines, trench coats, pillbox hats, narrow belts, snoods.
50s
Post-war, many females wished to re-establish their femininity by wearing structured dresses, and leaving the tailored suits and trouser look behind. Day wear consisted of cotton skirts and button down blouses- and transforming into fitted boned dresses paired with elbow length gloves for romantic evening wear. The “New Look” was created in 1947 when designer Christian Dior claimed he wanted all women to look like “flowers”. After the frugal opportunities for elegant fashion in the forties, women were delighted by this new trend, which celebrated the hourglass figure. Glamour was back.
Jayne Mansfield was a fashion icon of the time, embodying the perfect way to wear the twinset, whilst ladies were embracing the craze for full skirts and novelty prints- such as Scottie dogs, telephones and flowers.
Other fifties inspired items include: Circular skirts, Capri pants, silk print headscarves, wide brim hats, cat’s eye sun glasses.
60s
The sixties is undoubtedly the decade of freedom and expression. The fashion industry supported this new change and the gap between generations widened. The mini-skirt is iconic, as is the baby doll shape. The silhouette was triangular, coats empire line with big round buttons. The designs were supposed to symbolise fun and youthfulness. Fabrics were manmade, colour was a major theme.
The sixties was the end of formal evening wear, with psychedelic patterns and transparent fabrics taking the fore front of fashion. Dresses were made with cut-outs, a new approach to clothing adopted by Paco Rabanne which proved very popular. Evening wear is similar to daywear, with less women changing dress to go out. The hippy culture saw a return to romantic style fashion, made from chiffon and silk. Yves Saint Laurent pioneered the glamorous trouser suit.
Other sixties style giveaways: Bell sleeves, Shift dresses, Metallic Knits, Afghan coats, knee-high boots, loud prints, crochet dresses.
70s
The seventies had a unique style. The sixties had paved the way for fashion diversity and the seventies followed suit. Individuality was expressed in the music the youth listened to and the clothes they wore. Typical seventies women sported wide lapels, wide cut trousers, bright colours and often customised their clothes. Hot-pants and maxi dresses were popular.
Popular styles from the 70s: platforms, playsuits, flares, disco dresses.
80s
The power suit marked the way for women of the eighties. This meant shoulder padding, cropped jackets and boxy style tops. Skirts were short and tight, giving confidence and the feeling of power. Films such as “Working Girl” epitomised this new persona for women everywhere. The fashionable shape to have was triangular- broad at the top and tapered at the bottom. Accessories ranged from stiletto heels to designer labels. More was more in the eighties.
Accessories worn in the eighties: Gold and Pearl jewellery, Diamante novelty brooches, Chanel quilted clutch bags.
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